Growing your OWN Salvia divinorum Seeds: A Simple Step by Step Illustrated Guide.

Growing your own Salvia divinorum seeds (2007 Version)

Growing your OWN Salvia divinorum Seeds:

A Simple Step by Step Illustrated Guide.

Report begun September 25th, 2006

Last update on December 18th, 2007

California currently proposes
that Salvia divinorum be a felony.

We need your help in the fight to keep this sacred plant legal – Please
Click here!


Preamble: Why this research page?

Do you grow Salvia divinorum? Have you noticed that every fall
your
plants want to bloom? I have noticed that the prevailing attitude
towards Salvia divinorum is that it does not set viable seeds. It is
mostly to combat this attitude that I have created this web page.
Research and experimentation from 1980 through 2007 have proved Salvia
divinorum to be self-fertile. Salvia will set seeds if you give her a
chance. You just need to know the signposts on the road to seeds: what
to look for.

Some of the reasons I chose to ‘publish’ this ongoing
botanical research here are:

  • to encourage you to hand pollinate your Salvia divinorum
    flowers this season.
  • to attempt to collect statistics on what percentage of
    pollinated flowers develop into seed bearing calices and perhaps more
    accurate germination statistics.
  • to encourage you to plant those seeds and increase the
    genetic diversity of this species.
  • and, to fully document the entire Salvia divinorum
    reproductive cycle.

All the information on this page was kindly contributed
(through emails) by Mr. Daniel Siebert of the Salvia
divinorum Research and Information Center
,
or was quoted from the single web page I am citing from, or was
directly observed and photographed by me. Mr. Siebert’s help was
invaluable to me through the fall and winter of 2005 / 2006. I wish to
help all of you in the same way he was of help to me.

Any quotation used by me is either from an e-mail, or from THIS
research paper
, accepted in 1987, that is
hosted on the Salvia
divinorum Research and Information Center

web site.

I’d like to thank Jupe in Santa Barbara for feedback, and
pictures
of his lush garden (with hummingbird!), and I’d especially like to
Thank Mr. Siebert: without whose advice this web site / my garden /
would not exist. I would also like to thank Jupe & Mr. Siebert
for
the nice pictures of freshly grown Salvia divinorum seeds for my
posting on this research page … You guys are the greatest …

Equipment you will need to grow your own seeds:

  • Salvia divinorum plants that are 12 inches or taller (that
    are blooming or showing signs of blooming.)
  • Eyes
  • Hands
  • Patience
  • A modicum of eye/hand coordination
  • A few minutes of time each day
  • Optional Equipment (highly recommended):

  • Small {1 inch square to 1/2 inch square in Size} 2 mil
    Ziploc bags (to insure seed capture)
  • A magnifying glass
  • and a camera: so you can show off your success.

Part One: Considerations about Blooming.

You will notice that the first thing on the list of equipment
that
you will need is “Salvia divinorum plants that are 12 inches or taller
(that are blooming or showing signs of blooming.)” I cannot stress
enough the importance of having flowers on your plant in order to get
seeds from it.😉

MOST Salvia plants in the wild bloom when the days get shorter than 12
hours. My Salvia divinorum garden has shown signs, 3 Octobers in a row,
that it will bloom. On October 14th, plus or minus one week, I will see
the tell-tale signs of flowering spikes starting to form on the tips of
branches.

As a matter of fact it has begun already this year all over southern
California. My garden, as well as Jupe’s garden in Santa Barbara,
already is showing sites where racemes are developing on our Salvia
divinorum plants. We can safely assume that, barring too much man made
light at night interfering with your plants photo-period, that by the
end of November 2007 you, too, will have Salvia divinorum plants
preparing to bloom! 

 


“During our conversations Don Alejandro told us that the flowers
produced seed that could be planted to grow the Salvia.”

“From herbarium sheets of Oaxacan collections, we noted that flowering
specimens were collected only between late August and March,
a time of short days

(Valdés 1983). In Mexico City (which is not far north of the
collection localities), daylength reaches a maximum of 13h in June and
decreases to about 12 h in October

(Salisbury and Ross 1978). Although most plants affected by daylength
need exposure to a certain critical dark period to begin the
development of flower buds, some need a tapered decrease in daylength
to induce flowering (Bickford and Dunn 1973).”

Outdoor and greenhouse experiments

About 50 plants were cultivated in an Ann Arbor garden during summers.
They were put in a greenhouse (Matthaei Botanical Gardens) in September
1980 and placed on 28 in tall 6 ft by 17ft benches. Minimum greenhouse
temperature was 10°C. Maximum temperature (10-30°C)
depended on
outside conditions.

Experimental results

Buds were observed in late October. Flowering began on 10 Nov and
continued until early January 1981. All specimens bloomed. Similar
results occurred during 1981 and 1982.”

Of 14 hand-pollinated flowers (later protected by
glassine envelopes),
four
set seed,
which was collected on 16 Dec 1980.

Four out of Fourteen doesn’t sound like Salvia is infertile to ME!


Here in San Diego I saw the first signs of racemes forming on October
8th, 2006. For October 12th in San Diego sunrise is 06:50 AM / sunset
is 06:19 PM: that is 11 and 1/2 hours of daylight. In addition, I’m
losing 2 minutes of daylight per day: the sun rises a minute later and
sets a minute earlier. The changes that trigger blooming in Salvia
divinorum begin to occur just after the daylight hours get down to 12
hours per day. I even calculated that my salvia plants first felt the
urge to bloom about 2 weeks ago when the photo-period fell to 12 hours
of sunlight per day. Anything less than 12 hours of sunlight triggers
the beginning of racemes, it seems.

If your plants get natural light they will attempt to bloom for you
each fall unless they are exposed to too much man made
lighting during the night.

Check to make sure they are not
under the streetlight, or next to the late night tennis courts.
 All night security lights, and too much light from your
house’s windows, will prevent
blooming! My investigations revealed that a 40 watt incandescent
security lamp 12 feet away was
sufficient to prevent flowering. Put your plant in a dark closet or
cupboard where it won’t be disturbed for more than a few minutes during
the night.

I have 3 or 4 plants that are near my bathroom window that refuse to
flower. All the plants in a 6 foot radius of the tiny frosted shower
window have no racemes: except Henry. (The side of Henry facing the
window doesn’t have flowers: the far side of Henry will flower soon!)
The 27 watt florescent bathroom light has been left on too long
for too many nights now and these plants right under the window have
aborted flowering for the
rest of the season. Salvia divinorum is VERY Sensitive to even small
amounts of artificial light disrupting her flowering cycle! If your
plants refuse to flower I can assure you they are getting SOME
Artificial light at night!


If you are growing Salvia divinorum in a basement, or a
garage, or somewhere where it gets no natural light
you can induce flowering at any time of the year!

Since you grow your plants under lights controlled by a timer you can
induce flowering simply by setting your daylight to night ratio of your
lighting systems photo-period down to 11 hours of daylight to 13 hours
of dark. There is no need to taper the daylight hours down to 11 hours
slowly, over a period of weeks: it can be done overnight.

Mr. Valdés experiments with the growth chambers demonstrated
that blooming in Salvia divinorum is triggered by shorter periods of
daylight. As he put it:


The greenhouse and
growth-chamber experiments indicated that S.
divinorum is an obligate short-day plant. Plant height is a minor
factor in flower development, as several (growth chamber) specimens
were less than 0.5 m tall when they flowered.

“Growth chamber experiments

Sherer Environmental Chambers models CEL-512-37 and CEL-34-14 were
freshly outfitted with incandescent (93W) and cool white VHO
fluorescent bulbs. Eleven plants from each of the three sources were
divided between the two chambers. Plant-top light-intensity varied from
2,800-3,300 ft-c, depending on plant height and the chamber involved.
Controls were set for maximum relative humidity (measurements varied
between 50 and 100%). Temperature was set at 22°C day (16H) and
17°C night (8 H). Plants were grown under these conditions for
12
wk. Beginning 24 Jan 1980, daylength was decreased from 16 to 11 h over
a 4 wk period.

Experimental results

Buds were noted on 4 Apr 1980; flowering branches were collected on 20
Apr 1980 (Valdés s.n., 22 Oct 1980, MICH). All plants
flowered
at a height less than 1.0 m; the flowers had a purplish calyx and white
corolla (flower). Repeating
the experiments with an abrupt change from 16 h to 11 h days indicated
tapered decreases in daylength were not necessary to induce flowering.

Increasing daylength to over 12 h caused plant to revert to vegetative
growth and abort flowers

(Valdés s.n., 15 June 1981, MICH). Later a malfunctioning
timer
switch indicated that less than a week of 24h days induced this
reversion, even if conditions were returned to short (11h) days.”


If you are currently growing Salvia divinorum in a ‘dark room’ all you
must do is set the timer to 11 hours of daylight for the next three
months / daily hand pollinate: and harvest viable seeds (perhaps
hundreds of them) for about a 3 month period / set the timer to 16
hours of daylight for the next three months and grow your plants much
bigger – then repeat the cycle every 6 months! You’ll have two “harvest
seasons” per year, totaling over 5 months, to get as many seeds as you
can. Let’s see: if a raceme has a dozen verticillasters on its rachis,
each verticillaster being composed of 2 cymules and each cymule having
two equal clusters of 6 pedicles, and bearing in mind that each pedicle
can host 4 seeds maximum …. Oh, yes: and I’ll assume that 10% of all
hand pollination’s result in seeds – what is that? Hmmmmmm. Possibly
quite a few seeds ….

Comes the equinox: she feels ‘the call of fall’ and
slowly shifts gears for seeding time.

EVEN a cutting will try to bloom! On October 5th, 2006 I got a cutting
from
one of my plants and put it in a mug of water.

Click to enlarge image.

On November 8th I saw the bud of a flower stalk had started forming in
the previous 5 weeks as the cutting was growing roots in a mug of
water! The cutting is in dirt now and will bloom almost as soon as it
is a plant!

Summary: if the plants get a sufficiently long period
of
uninterrupted (and dark) darkness each night they will bloom for you.
It’s their instincts at work. This plant will follow it’s instincts to
bloom and set viable seeds.


Part Two: Hand Pollination and Seed Harvesting.

Signposts on the road: what to Look for.

The first signs that your plants are going to bloom is the
appearance of the buds that will eventually become the racemes
(flowering stalks).

The first sign

Click to enlarge image.


The second sign on the road to seeds is the bud of the
flowering stalk begins to unwind and lengthen.

The Second Sign

Click to Enlarge Image.


The third sign on the road to seeds is the further lengthening
of
the flowering stalks, the raceme begins to turn purple at the nodes,
and small immature flower buds appear. Immature flowers in ‘green’
calices may bloom: but they are not fragrant and will not set seeds.

The Third Sign

Click to Enlarge Image.


The fourth sign on the road to seeds is the whole raceme and
all
buds finally turn purple and mature flower buds begin to bloom. These
flowers are larger, have purple calices, and smell sweet, and they will
begin to attract pollinators, if any are around.

The Fourth Sign

Click to Enlarge Image.

Get ready: It’s time for YOU
to do YOUR Part …..


OK, you’ve got a Salvia plant with flowers on it: now what do
you do?

You wait until a flower falls off of the plant: pick up the freshest
fallen flower and look at it. Sticking out of the open end of the
flower is something that looks like a forked snakes tongue: This is
called the pistle. The inside of the fork on the end of the pistil is
called the stigma: it has the receiving channels for the pollen in it.
Below the pistle are two small brown pinheads sticking out on small
white threads: these are called anthers.

You should choose a flower that is still all white, with no trace of
brown or purple streaking it, and the pollen parts should be from light
yellow to chocolate brown in color: and not withered up.

Flower parts illustration: the steps on the road to seeds

From Flower Buds to Seeds

Click to Enlarge

For a more complete discussion of flower parts and the
wondrous way that nature organizes them: please refer to This
Page
.

As you refer to that page please keep in mind these points: Salvia has
a complete flower and dicotyledonous seeds, its septals are purple and
fused into a calyx, and its corolla is fused to form a corolla tube.

What you want to do now is to wipe the anthers that are on the flower
in your hand right along the middle of the forked tongue (the stigma)
of the remaining flowers on your plant. Wipe the protruding and fuzzy
pinheads on the flower you are holding along both sides of the inside
of the white forked snakes tongue protruding from the remaining flowers
on your plant (the stigma). Wipe them carefully along the inside of the
“V” shape made by the end of the pistle.

Click to Enlarge Image.

The pollen is invisible and you’ll not be able to tell if you’ve done
it correctly. (it takes but a second or two for a quick wipe.) If you
do this twice a day, you have six chances to pollinate any given
flower, because the flowers only stay on the plant for about three days
after they open. That will be the most of the work you’ll have to do,
aside from watching / protecting / and harvesting your own special
Salvia divinorum seeds as they develop.

Click to Enlarge Image.


Wild Pollinators:

If you are not growing outdoors you may skip this part.

There are likely no ‘birds and bees’ able to get to your flowers.

Jupe caught an Anna’s hummingbird feeding and pollinating his

Salvia divinorum patch on November 27th, 2006.

He took her picture: I circled her in green. Way to go Jupe!

(Find
the hummingbird in the above photo. See her?)

Hummingbirds
are known pollinators of Salvia divinorum blossoms: these are 2
pictures of Anna’s hummingbirds pollinating a Salvia divinorum flower.
Jupe and I caught them in the act of pollinating in these photos! If
you have hummingbirds around they will argue over whose turn it is to
lick out your Salvia divinorum flowers! As I said on the web page for my garden: “The early bird gets the
nectar, the next bird gets hummingbird spit
!
Yeah, but whether it gets nectar or spit every hummingbird will try to
lick your flowers dry: this may result in some pollination and ‘wild’
seeds! I have seeds ripening in my garden that I know I did not
pollinate (the next picture down the page!)! I saw
the
hummingbird making his rounds of every raceme yesterday looking for
more flowers to lick out! So, except for the fact that I didn’t witness
the pollination myself, I am certain the seeds are hummingbird
pollinated ones! I’m going to get lazy with hummingbirds licking them
out every day!

Bees are also seen on Salvia divinorum blossoms. Bees are believed (by
me) to be the pollinators responsible for the wild Salvia divinorum
seeds harvested on Hawaii in 2005. I learned that there are no
hummingbirds on Hawaii, and the person that gathered several dozen
‘wild born’ seeds from the plants there had
reported seeing bees on those plants. It is possible that bees will do
you a pollination service also. I saw bees visiting my plants in 2007.

I don’t blame the birds and bees: salvia nectar is delicious and the
fresh flowers are like sweet tiny apples. The flowers smell strongly of
Honeysuckle. One person said she sprinkled fresh salvia flowers on her
salads: an excellent use for them besides being a source of Pollen.


The fifth sign: after about three days (hopefully you
pollinated on
all 3 days the blossom was open😀 ) the flower will fall out of the
little purple cup it bloomed out of.

(This little purple cup is called a calyx. This is where the seeds will
be forming in the next four weeks.)

Click to Enlarge Image.

Mr. Siebert wrote me: “Another
way to do it is to remove the anthers
from one flower with
tweezers, and then use the isolated anthers to dust the stigma (the
forked
end of the pistil) with pollen. If fertilization is successful,
the calyx of the fertilized flower will stay on the plant for several
weeks
after pollination. If it is unsuccessful, it will fall off a few days
after
the pollination attempt.

He also wrote: “The
mature seeds are pretty small (1.8ˆ2.1 mm
long, 1ˆ1.2 mm wide). They are
green when immature. They are dark brown when mature. If you peek
inside the
calices with a hand lens, you will see the developing nutlets.

Green Salvia Seeds Ripening in 2007

You’ll also notice a
cream-colored protuberance alongside the seeds.
This is the
gynobase horn. Each calyx can produce up to four seeds. Watch for the
seeds to change color from green to brown. When they turn
dark brown they are ripe. Once they are ripe, they will fall out of the
calyx easily. Valdés noted that it took 25-27 days between
date of pollination and date of
seed harvest on the plants that he hand-pollinated.

I recommend trying to
cross whatever strains one has available. When performing crosses, it
is a
good idea to do so in both directions (i.e., use pollen from plant A to
pollinate plant B, and visa versa). It would be very interesting to
cross
‘Luna” with another strain. To perform a cross pollination, one should
insure that the flower being pollinated does not come into contact with
its
own pollen or pollen from other Salvia plants other than the one you
intend.
This mean that you have to remove the immature anthers from the flower
before the flower is fully open. You then have to prevent the flower
from
being pollinated by wind, insects, or hummingbirds. That means you have
to
isolate the flowers by enclosing them in small nylon-mesh bags. Little
plastic bags might work also. In any case, it is no easy project. You
could
not bother to isolate the flowers, but then you could not be sure that
the
seeds resulted from your hand-pollination attempt or a different
pollinator.

I have some of those 1″ by 1″ baggies left over from last year that
might do the trick for covering flower and all – let me know if you’re
interested in them, instead.

So, you should hand pollinate all the flowers you can get to twice a
day using the freshest fallen flower. You do this throughout the entire
blooming season. Every little purple cup (calyx) that stays on the
plant over a week after the flower has fallen out is developing seeds
inside of it. IF
you are lucky enough to have several strains of Salvia divinorum plants
handy: Using a flower from one strain (say, LUNA, for example) to wipe
on some of the flowers on a different strain plant (like BLOSSER) can
result in seeds of a new hybrid strain!!!!! (seeds of the new “BLUNA”
strain: very rare!)😉

The final sign: You get your magnifying glass, and you look up inside
of those calices that refuse to fall off the plant.

Green Salvia Seeds Ripening

If you see seeds like these ripening inside the calices, you should
slip a small covering over the calyx to prevent the loss of seeds. The
scientists in the paper I am citing from used small glassine envelopes:
last year I used 1 inch by 1 inch small Ziploc bags to cover the
calices and prevent seed loss.

Ziploc Bags Protect Seeds Ripening

This year I shall be using 5/8 inch by 5/8 inch 2 mil Ziploc bags to
cover the calices. (This is a better size, as the 1 in. by 1 in. bags
were a bit too large.) I bought a thousand of them and will sell them
in pairs only at two for three cents (3¢ for 2 bags) if you
wish
to buy some from me.

I have determined that there is an easy way to tell, just by looking,
whether not any given calyx is developing seeds.

The Ripening Gauge

    B – These are flower BUDS: your future seeds

  1. The shape of
    the calyx that the flower has just fallen out of, when viewed from the
    side, is conical or tapered.
  2. The cross section shape of the calyx that the flower has
    just
    fallen out of is oval when you look right into it. It retains this oval
    shape through the first 2 weeks after that. This calyx shows seeds
    about a week to two weeks after the petals fell out. The gynobase horn
    (that white wedge seen here) is predominantly visible for about the
    first week or two.
  3. At about a week you can see that seeds have set by the
    shadow of
    the enlarging gynobase horn inside the calyx. Notice the width of the
    open end is much wider than the width of the closed end. Up to about
    two weeks: the calyx has a tapered look to it.
  4. Inside this protective Ziploc a calyx has seeds 3 weeks old
    almost ripe in it. This calyx has gotten longer and has a square cross
    section with distinctive creases running the length of it.
  5. 2 to 3 week old seeds ripening
  6. You can tell this one is full of seeds. As the seeds ripen
    you’ll note that the closed end swells up as the calyx lengthens until
    both ends are the same width. The sides of the calyx are nearly
    parallel here. In addition: you can actually see the shadow of the
    seeds forming up inside the calyx. This is a good time to put a
    protective baggie over the calyx.
  7. The calyx turns square and gets sharp creases along it’s
    length.
  8. And older riper calices get ragged and torn looking septals.

I have observed that the cross section shape of the calyx that the
flower has just fallen out of is oval when you look right into it. If
viewed from the side its shape is conical or tapered. If pollination is
successful the cross section shape of the calyx, over the next four
weeks, becomes square and the calyx itself elongates into a boxy and
square looking tube. This is because the septals continue growing as
the seeds ripen, and the seeds push out, as they ripen, in four
different directions to get a distinct square cross section. At the
start: the width of the open end is much wider than the closed end. But
in 3 weeks time the closed end swells up, as the calyx lengthens, until
both ends are the same width. In addition: you can actually see the
shadow of the seeds forming up inside the calyx. This is a good time to
put a protective baggie over the calyx.

After four weeks the calyx turns brown. This is your
plants way
of saying that she’s done with the job and seeds are ripe! She no
longer cares what happens to them: they are supposed to fall out and
‘get lost’! When the bagged calyx turns brown carefully remove the
calyx and ripe seeds with the Ziploc bag still covering them. (you
could carefully snip the pedicle with cuticle scissors.)

A Calyx and 4 Ripe Seeds

Happy Harvesting!

I wrote Mr. Siebert to ask him if he’d like to sell the mature Salvia
seeds “we” are going to grow this year from his Sage Wisdom web site.
And here’s most of his reply:

“Yes. Definitely. I would be happy to buy Salvia divinorum seeds from
anyone
as long as they are genuine and viable. I’ll have to think about the
purchase price.

Make sure on your website that you advise people to refrigerate their
seeds
after harvest. In my experience, they remain viable
for about 2 years if
refrigerated, but only a few months if stored at room temperature.

Regards,

Daniel Siebert

The Salvia divinorum Research and Information Center

http://sagewisdom.org

See? I just learned something else. I’ve learned an awful Lot about
these plants in 44 months. I’ve learned I love them.


Glossary:

  • Anthers: the only part of the blossom that isn’t white.
    These
    brown fuzzy pinheads are the plants male organs and they produce the
    Pollen. They are on the ends of the stamens: and they are the second
    layer out from the middle core (the Pistil) of the flower.
  • Calyx: the outermost (fourth) layer of the flower. A little
    ‘cup’
    made of fused together special petals called Septals. It’s all that’s
    left attached to the plant after the blossom has exploded out of one
    end of a bud, bloomed, and fallen out. The seeds ripen in here.
  • Corolla: a fancy name for “Petals”. It’s what we would call
    “the
    flower”, but it’s the second layer in from the calyx, the third layer
    out from the center layer of the whole flower. In Salvia divinorum all
    the petals have fused into a single white tube called a Corolla tube.
  • Pedicle: the small stem that holds the flower on the flower
    stalk. It connects the Bud/Flower/Calyx to the Rachis of the Raceme.
  • Pistil: the innermost (first) layer of the flower. At the
    base of
    this are the female organs and the seeds set there. It looks like a
    white forked snakes tongue. It ends in the Stigma: which is the part of
    the flower that sticks out furthest.
  • Pollen: Invisible male sex cells that you should rub off of
    an
    Anther onto the Stigma of a flower still attached to your plant! If
    this doesn’t happen (Pollination): neither will seeds.
  • Raceme: a fancy name for the entire Inflorescence
    (flowering
    spike). Rings of flowers (usually 24 flowers per ring, or
    Verticillaster) stacked in layers, one Verticillaster above the other,
    form along its Length. Your plant can have dozens of these Racemes!
  • Rachis: The central stem running the length of the raceme
    (flowering spike).
  • Septals: the fourth (outermost) layer of the flower. It’s
    all you
    can see of a flower bud because all the rest of the parts are stuffed
    up inside. In Salvia divinorum: all the Septals are fused to form a
    seamless Calyx after the bud blooms.
  • Stigma: the inside legs of the “V” shape (snake’s tongue)
    at the
    end of the Pistil. The invisible channels for the microscopically small
    pollen grains are in this area. Wipe the Anthers along the inside of
    the forked part to hand pollinate.

(For my 2006 observations please click
here
.)

My 2007 Experimental Results:

  • October 21st, 2007: Suddenly 6 plants have the sign of
    flowers spikes starting at the
    ends of
    many branches! BOOM! Several of them look several days old: I rejoice even
    though I was expecting this

    to happen in the first 3 weeks of October 2007. Seed season is
    officially
    open now in my garden: It’s been open for 3 weeks up at Jupe’s garden
    in Santa Barbara! And since I knew his garden was starting up mine
    would be too, and soon. Today was the day.
  • November 5th, 2007: “Isabel” was the first plant to bloom,
    on
    November
    5th, followed closely by “Sally”. I expect flowers to pop out on all my
    larger plants any time now. 14:48 I saw a big shiny Male Anna’s
    Hummingbird fly around the NE corner of the house (from Isabel’s
    flower) and CAREFULLY fly around checking out Calvin/Sally for flowers
    – then land on a flimsy branch (which wouldn’t hold his weight) and
    quickly fly off!
  • November 15th, 2007:  I see the Anna’s
    hummingbird feeding on the Salvia flowers in my garden only 4 feet away
    from me.  Of the 5 photographs I took aimed in her general
    direction this one: 

    Anna's hummingbird feeding on Salvia divinorum flowers.

    caught him in the act …  So far I haven’t hand pollinated a
    single flower: I’m going to check for set seeds soon. There is a good
    chance some are forming.

  • November 18th, 2007: The hummingbird flies in my face,
    unafraid of me, as she looks me over.
    Then she pollinated some flowers.

    The Hummingbird flew right in my Face!

    Hummingbird
    flies in my face Photo #2

    Hummingbird
    flies in my face Photo
    #3

    Hummingbird
    Pollinating Photo
    #4

    Hummingbird
    Pollinating Photo
    #5
     

  • November 20th, 2007: I haven’t hand pollinated yet this
    year, but a gang of hummingbirds has been working over my plants for
    me.
     So, I just know that those hummingbirds are responsible for
    any seeds that have set.  I looked my plants over and I think
    I see some seeds ripening already:   
  • November 28th, 2007: I still haven’t hand pollinated any
    flowers. A hummingbird makes the rounds hourly and I see dozens or
    maybe even hundreds of set seeds already.  Some are already
    well along … 

    Salvia
    seeds ripening Photo #2

    Salvia
    seeds ripening Photo #3

  • December 7th, 2007: the hummingbird flies in front of me in
    the rain (no camera in my hands this time). Later that afternoon I
    returned to find “Sally”, an 8′ Salvia tree growing out of a 12″ pot,
    had blown over in the
    storm. There was considerable storm damage.
  • December 11th, 2007: I hand Pollinate a few flowers. There
    was quite a bit of damage to the larger plants with unsupported
    branches in the last 2 storms. The updated photos of Pollination are
    posted above.

  • December 13th, 2007: I saw a bored, lost bee that made a
    left turn on
    her way to the red berry trees (12 feet north of the Salvia flowers)
    working
    on Sally’s flowers. I •think• she was trying for the pollen.
  • December 14th, 2007: While taking remote video in an
    attempt to get the hummingbird on tape I got a different bird on tape.
    Much to my dismay I got 4 minutes of camcorder footage of what looked
    like a hungry bird eating all the seeds on my plants.

    Hungry Bird on Salvia divinorum plants

  • December 17th, 2007: The State of California reopens the
    hearings on AB259 http://members.cox.net/sageseeds/ab259.html
     
    and wants to make all the Salvia researchers in the state felons. I do
    not think making laws based on media scare stories, with no real
    research to back the laws up, is a good idea. The state of California
    already has overcrowded jail cells and cannot make room for thousands
    of new “Instant Felons” (myself included).

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